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When assembling a list of London’s best restaurants, one might expect familiar high-end establishments. Yet, nestled prominently among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a distant area of northern London.

An Surprise Recognition

This small Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the family completely surprised.

“I’m utterly shocked,” states a family member, referring to his family’s hard graft that led to their small shop achieving such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The compact space, which was a simple cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its former feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the fare, and this restaurant more than delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender texture.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

It is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can run into many times that price.

The Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate outside its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater significance of this culinary triumph.